Nagayu Onsen Oita Prefecture
Ganiyu, Lamune Onsen and Kur Park Nagayu are three recommended onsen hot springs in Nagayu Onsen, Oita Prefecture, Kyushu.
Three Unique Hot Springs in Nagayu, Oita 長湯温泉, 大分
Greg Goodmacher
Ganiyu Onsen Viewed from the Road
In a far-flung area of Oita Prefecture, Kyushu, hot springs in the relaxed tiny town of Nagayu warmly greet visitors.
Because of its quiet, rural environment and lack of foreign tourists, Nagayu is one of my favorite lesser-known onsen towns. And I have bathed in over 600 hot spring baths in numerous locales across Japan.
Traffic jams are nonexistent, the locals are friendly and welcoming, and the admission prices for bathing facilities are surprisingly low. The various types of thermal water in Nagayu have been healing me for over twenty years. My three favorite places to soak are Ganiyu, Lamune Onsen, and Kur Park Nagayu.
Ganiyu
If you are embarrassed about your body, you won't enjoy Ganiyu. Anyone walking, driving, or cycling along a nearby road and bridge will be able to see you in the middle of the Seri River.
Locals built this simple rock-lined bath alongside the river, which flows through the center of town, back in a time when nudity was not an issue.
If shy, you can disrobe or change - if you wish to wear a swimsuit - under a small bridge (not seen in the photo) to the right of the bather. This bath is free of charge. If you are free from embarrassment, submerge yourself in the continually flowing thermal water and relish the view of the open sky.
Fashionable Lamune Onsen Dog
Exterior of Lamune Private Bathing Room
Lamune Onsen
Lamune Onsen (lamune-onsen.co.jp) offers a bathing experience in naturally carbonated water that is heated deep underground.
Imagine sitting inside of warm fizzy soda water. Miniscule bubbles briefly rest on your skin before floating to the surface and popping like champagne bubbles. Since the source of this surprising water is natural, the vivacity of the bubbles often vary. The temperature of carbonated springs is usually lower than most Japanese hot springs. Lamune's carbonated water baths are 32° Celsius = 89.6° Fahrenheit.
The architecture of Lamune Onsen and the artworks on display turn a bathing experience into a visit to a charming art park. Charred wooden exterior siding adds a rustic look, and in the middle of the front garden stands a statue of an elegant dog/gentleman. Japan's award-winning architect Terunobu Fujimori designed Lamane Onsen. The building and garden are so unique that most bathers take countless photographs.
You can rent private bathing rooms, called kazokuburu in Japanese, for just yourself, your friends, or your family if bathing with strangers bother you.
When my family rented a private bathing area, we discovered a view of a Japanese-style garden and two different baths - all just for us! Warm carbonated water poured continuously into a circular ceramic tub. The second bath was much hotter (42° Celsius = 107.6° Fahrenheit).
Alternating between bathtubs and enjoying the scenery was mentally and physically healing. One hour of pleasure in this private hot spring oasis cost 2,000 yen.
The main bathing areas are separated, one for males and one for females. Admission is 500 yen for adults, 200 yen for children from three to fifteen, and free for babies and toddlers.
Kur Park Nagayu Onsen
Bathing along the river in Nagayu
Kur Park Nagayu
In June 2019, a German-influenced hot spring - Kur Park Nagayu - opened along the Seri River. This new onsen complex combines a restaurant, hot springs, and separate lodges, all with spectacular views.
Shigeru Ban, another outstanding, internationally known architect, designed this facility to fit into the environment. While bathing, I noticed numerous small frogs climbing up the outsides of windows near the second-floor hot springs.
The bathing areas are divided into sections. One is for traditional gender-separated nude bathing, and the other is for mixed sex-bathing. Wearing a swimsuit is required, and they are for rent. Japanese culture is changing.
Kur Park Nagayu Onsen Walking Path
Another unique feature is that the outdoor hot-spring area has a fifty-meter walking course parallel to the river. There are several places to soak with views of the water. Saunas and relaxation rooms are available for day visitors and overnight guests. The water is brownish because of its high mineral content.
The cabins are within walking distance of the hot springs. The price to stay is 11,000 yen per person, which includes breakfast.
So that everyone can enjoy the natural sounds of birds and insects in the mornings, guests are asked to keep their phones on manner mode while on the premises. For more information, go to www.kur-nagayu.co.jp. If you are in Japan, call 0974 64 1444. Adult day-trippers can bathe for 500 yen, elementary-school-aged children pay 200 yen, and younger kids enter for free.
Before, after, or between soaking, strolling around the town is another pleasant experience. Waterfowl feed and play in the river, farmers work in their fields, and ryokan guests sightsee while wearing Japanese yukata (loose, informal, kimono-like garb) and geta clogs. Be sure to hydrate at one of the many free cold freshwater springs around town.
Inside Bath, Kur Park Nagayu Onsen
More Information about Nagayu and Overnighting
Nagayu is home to around a dozen Japanese inns, ranging from rustic and economical to luxurious and pricey. For hotel information, click this Japanese-language website: nagayu-onsen.jp/ryokan.
There is not much English information on Nagayu: Perhaps that is why it has maintained its charm. However, while researching this article, I discovered a 24-hour English language information center that you can call for assistance. The number is 092 687 6639. Discover Oita provides this service.
Free car camping in the countryside is another option. Car campers can easily find suitable locations. However, be prepared for the possibility of encountering wild boar at night. I have seen boar, fox, and rabbits in my headlights while driving in the evening. Campers, be sure to leave no traces.
Getting to Nagayu
A bus is the best option if you do not drive. From Oita Station in Oita city (the largest city near Nagayu), go to bus stop 4. Buses depart weekdays and Saturday at 9.40 am and 3.20 pm. Buses depart on Sundays and holidays at 10.40 am and 1.15 pm.
Travel time is about 50 minutes. Buses leave Nagayu for Oita at 7.03 am and 1.00 pm on weekdays and Saturday. Sunday and holiday departures are 8.23 am and 1.15 pm.
The writer of this article blogs about Japanese hot springs at hotspringaddict.blogspot.com
