Street food in Yanaka Ginza: Eat and explore in retro Tokyo!

Yanaka Ginza is one such neighborhood. Not far from Nippori Station on the Yamanote Line, Yanaka Ginza is a standing piece of Tokyo history—a neighborhood with a distinct atmosphere that embodies retro Japan. Indeed, Yanaka Ginza is one of the representative neighborhoods of “shitamachi,” the eastern part of Tokyo that has historically been home to a more modest, salt-of-the-earth environment. This can be seen in the area’s vintage-style townscape, with Showa-period architecture intertwined with storied shrines, an abundance of small businesses with authentic charm, and countless spots for good-quality, quick, and cheap-eats.

Yanaka Senbei is as retro as it gets. Originally founded in 1913, the shop has gone through its share of renovations throughout the last century or so, but the shop’s exterior still boasts a genuine old-school appeal. But of course, what's found inside the shop is just as appealing and storied as the building itself. 

Senbei, a type of rice cracker, may be considered the most representative Japanese snack, distinctly salty and umami-filled with soy sauce flavor yet wonderfully crisp yet chewy. Yanaka Senbei’s selection is varied yet faithful to historic recipes. As the name suggests, very few institutions are as heavily associated with the Yanaka area as Yanaka Senbei. Surely, no visit to this neighborhood is complete without a few crackers to eat around town and to bring home!

What’s a proper city neighborhood without a great local bakery? In Yanaka Ginza, that role is fulfilled by many different shops, but one of the most beloved is Bakery Hitotema. Offering a mix of both savory baked goods and sweet treats, Hitotema’s roster can satisfy as both a hearty breakfast and an indulgent dessert. 

They are mostly known for their anpan, a buttery bun filled with dense and gooey anko red bean paste and topped with two types of sesame seeds. Another staple is the curry pan, a great cross-cultural Japanese snack that infuses curry-flavored filling with fluffy bread. The selection at Hitotema is sure to satisfy anyone looking for a proper carb fix!

Japan is as much of a fan of treats that look good as well as taste good, and one of the most distinct-looking offerings in Yanaka comes from a shop named Yanaka Shippoya! Their claim to fame is their cat-tail doughnuts, oblong-shaped and stamped with an adorable cat paw motif at the end and other cat-themed details! There are 13 distinct flavors, with the most popular being one with bittersweet chocolate and white chocolate! 

Yanaka as a neighborhood is actually strongly associated with cats, with many motifs, souvenirs, and statues dedicated to the furry felines. Chances are, when coming to Yanaka, you’ll be sure to see a stray or two wandering around—a distinct sight that adds some lived-in character to the charming town area. 

Niku no Suzuki is the definitive Tokyo neighborhood butcher. Their offerings of freshly cut and marinated meats often appeal to local residents and families looking to cook for dinner, but it is also home to one of the most delectable bites in Yanaka. Aside from the quality meat offerings, Niku no Suzuki also sells fried croquettes in different flavors!

“Niku” in Japanese means meat, so it’s naturally a good decision to try their beef croquette, made with 100% beef and deep-fried to golden perfection. There are other croquette options as well, such as potato and mushroom. And, if you’re planning on heading home in ample time, some quality meat for home is never a bad option!

Cute doesn’t even begin to describe Yanaka no Omusubi. From its adorable smiling mascot to its charming interior to, of course, the bite-sized and pristinely shaped omusubi rice balls that they are renowned for. Omusubi is simply another name for onigiri, a rice ball formed and shaped with a filling of some type. 

Yanaka no Omusubi has mastered the classics, with offerings like tuna-mayo, salmon, squid and konbu, and ume plums being menu mainstays! However, they have a daily omusubi flavor that will keep patrons coming back to see the new offerings! Of particular note, the tanuki omusubi is a rice ball that is glazed with soy sauce and grilled, providing great smokiness and umami. For something even more hearty, the classic spam omusubi has the flavor-rich luncheon meat on top! In summer, kakigori, Japanese shaved ice, is available, great for the hot weather!

On the topic of great treats for the summer, Guru-Guru Gelato is a must-visit spot! While the sweets stand specializes in the famous Italian dairy treat, they do so in a way that is also distinctly Japanese! Using milk and cream from Hokkaido, Japan’s most northern island famous for dairy products, Guru-Guru has a seasonal menu of Japanese and internationally-beloved flavors, from Chocolate to Sakura Mochi. Of course, their green tea matcha flavor is a staple, and they even offer an iced matcha latte with matcha ice cream plopped on top!

As an added bonus, Guru-Guru Gelato in Yanaka is located within a stylish and charming interior design and furnishings store. There is an order window from outside, but why not do a bit of shopping while waiting for your cold, tasty treat?!

Jinsei Shokuhin sees no need to gussy up their storefront. Here, fresh fruits of the highest quality speak for themselves. Jinsei Shokuhin is what may be classified as a “yaoya,” a small green grocer that sells a number of different goods and foods. While storefronts like this usually appeal to local residents looking to get their groceries for the night, the selection of delicious produce set up outside is ripe for indulgence!

Fruits from all over the country can be had, including luscious peaches, juicy grapes, and crisp apples, usually coming from high fruit-bounty prefectures like Yamanashi, Nagano, Aomori, and Fukushima! Fruits in Japan are a true luxury item, often gifted to friends and family and fetching higher prices than other places, however, rest assured that they are the best of the best and are well worth the splurge. 

Chestnuts are a cool weather favorite in Japan, synonymous with the transition into autumn. Rich and nutty, the flavor is beautifully mild yet aromatic. At Waguriya, these chestnuts, known as kuri in Japanese, take the main stage, with different iterations of the treats ready to be tried. From confectionaries like creamy montblancs and traditional Japanese wagashi treats, the variety is only rivaled by the fantastic taste!

The chestnut paste used in a lot of the offerings is sourced from Ibaraki Prefecture, a more rural prefecture not too far from Tokyo that is blessed with rich forests. For many, the soft serve ice cream acts as the best canvas for the earthy flavors that are balanced out perfectly with a mild sweetness. That same soft serve can also come with some of that thick, rich montblanc puree served right on top!

Chaya Matsuo sells some of the most definitive Japanese sweets out there. From kakigori to sweet and sticky dango, nuggets of dense mochi, this storefront provides a contemporary and stylish iteration for the classic goodies one would find at a Japanese matsuri (festival) in the summer! Chaya itself means “tea shop,” so their tea and tea-flavored offerings are a must. Take a look at the loaded kakigori for some refreshing and luxurious bites, complete with anko red beans and a cat-shaped wafer!

The aforementioned dango is also beloved, thick and disk shaped with a beautifully chewy texture that is complimented with bright, sweet soy sauce flavors! Also, be sure to try the version with kinako powder, fluffy, nutty, earthy, and bold!